There were autumn flavours aplenty at CAMRA Vancouver’s Harvest Festival this past weekend.
By JAN ZESCHKY of The Province
After the beer-hall revelry of its Oktoberfest last month, CAMRA opted for the cozier environment of the Railway Club on Dunsmuir and Seymour, and it turned out to be a great venue for the afternoon event.
Several casks of seasonal craft beer from across southwest B.C. were set up on the Rail’s two bars, with the pub’s many nooks and crannies in between filled by brew lovers eagerly sipping some exclusive creations.
The Rail also laid on some hearty fall fare for the occasion – the perogies, for one, offering some very useful and delicious beer ballast.
But, naturally, this was all about the beer. Pumpkin ale has taken B.C. by storm this year, with several breweries offering takes on the mighty gourd. I’ve already given my thoughts on Howe Sound’s mighty Pumpkineater, an imperial ale that clocks in at 8% ABV and is bursting with seasonal spices, but this was an opportunity to get it straight from the cask. As it turned out, it was nearly flat in terms of carbonation, which caused a few grumbles in the pub. But I thought it only made the brew softer and more sippable. It’s certainly not one for quaffing, anyway.
Central City’s Red Racer Pumpkin Ale: Now that’s for quaffing. It’s lighter, much less complex than Pumpkineater but very, very drinkable. I can say the same for Phillips’ Crooked Tooth Pumpkin Ale, bottles of which were being poured at the festival.
It wasn’t all about pumpkin, though. Storm Brewing had brought along a cask of its bamboozling echinacea stout, which brewmaster James Walton had let me try at the brewery on my visit this summer. Walton had clearly gone a bit easier with the herbal tincture for this cask, as the grassy, menthol flavours were a little more subdued but in finer balance.
Meanwhile, Russell showed up with an extraordinary Scotch ale with an extraordinary name – Spicetastic Oakstravaganza Strikesback – a well-spiced, rich and smooth beer given great depth and balance by oak aging. This one stole the show show for me, along with Granville Island’s fresh-hopped ESB, a silky-smooth brew full of piney aromas and flavours.
Central City was also presenting its Oktoberfest beer, infused with chipotle peppers. Sadly, it only confirmed my dislike of chili beer. To be fair, Central City’s is the most balanced I’ve tried – i.e. the pepper didn’t completely destroy every other flavour – and there was a nice smokiness going on but, even still, a few sips in and I was ready to give up.
Ramping up the weirdness even further was R&B with its Cornucopia Golden Ale infused with – wait for it – chanterelle mushrooms. This straw-coloured ale was airy light, faintly sweet and bitter with an earthy body that, yes, did taste faintly of mushrooms. Curiously drinkable.
And the festival-goers seemed to agree because, towards the end of the afternoon, Cornucopia was awarded best in show after a rigorously monitored public vote (i.e. a clapometer). I was honoured to present the award to R&B, which probably deserved the prize on ambition alone. Well done, guys!
This was certainly a festival to showcase some of the invention of B.C. craft brewers. Just a few casks but so many different flavours were on offer – what’s more, flavours that were really appropriate to the season.
And with winter fast approaching, there’s another whole new crop of seasonals on the way. Almost makes you look forward to those cold, dark days ahead.
jzeschky@theprovince.com
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